Bits and Logs
Log Cabins & Cabin Accessories

1. Log cabins are made of a natural material and it is impossible to guarantee an absolutely perfect finish to every part because of the natural movement of timber. You must therefore expect to be prepared to carry out some finishing/alterations yourself. By definition you must be a competent woodworker and have the appropriate tools (saw, hammer, chisel, drill, etc.). If you feel that you might not be capable of carrying out this type of work then you should look to employ a suitable contractor who is able to do this for you.
   
   
2. Your cabin will be delivered in one large pack.

The first part of the installation process is to unpack the individual items within the main pack and stack them near to the proposed site for the building, at the same time counting the parts and checking them off against the parts list which is supplied with the building. This stage is very important and you should not start to construct the cabin if there are any missing or damaged pieces. If the kit is incomplete you should report this immediately.

3. The diagram below shows a typical excerpt from a base plan supplied with one of our cabins:




 

This plan shows a typical  floor “cellar” layout for a cabin with an overall dimension of 3.0m. The interlocking notch is typically set in by 0.1m from each log end, hence the base measuring 2.8m.
Please note that the plan shows the spacing between each of the cellars as well as the width of the cellar on plan view. Cellars are always laid “flatways” in order to allow for the floorboards to be fitted at the end of the job as described later on.

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5. Once the cellars are positioned, the first course of logs cab be fitted. Log cabins use interlocking joints which rely on a staggeredlog height, consequently the first course of logs consists of alternating full height logs and half height logs as shown below:
6. Build the walls as shown on the plans provided, sliding the windows and doors into position when there are around 5 courses of logs built up either side of the window/door  which help to hold them in place whilst you carry on building.

 

7. Fit the gable trusses into position and secure by sliding the main roof purlin supports in place.
   
   
8. If  you have an insulated roof/floor, the construction is as follows:





Screw the timber flanges to the underside of the purlins and screw the coving support to the side walls.
Lay the short lengths of T&G boarding between the purlins, resting on the flanges. Making sure that there are 10mm spaces at the start and finish of each bay in case the boarding swells.
When each bay is complete, fix the holding batten into the purlin on top of the T&G. This allows for movement in the T&G and holds it in place.
Fit the insulation between the purlins.
Once this step has been completed proceed to the next step. It is possible to complete this step after the main roof has been fitted but it is much easier to work from bottom to top with a 2 layer roof.

9. Nail the tongue and groove roof boards in place by starting at one end and working along, checking the distance covered at the top and bottom of the boards to ensure they are running parallel to the walls (this will avoid cutting a wedge-shaped final board).

NB          Do not fix the roof boards tightly together as they may swell and cause damage to your roof structure and felt.

10. Fix the side baulk to the underside of the protruding Tongue and grooved roof boards along the eaves, this will then form a drip for your felt to dress over:


               
Once the felt has been fitted, the “wind board decorative” can be fitted.

11. Now the building has been “weathered in”, it is safe to lay the floor without danger of it being exposed to the elements. Use the same principle as used with the roof, ie. start at one end and work towards the opposite wall, always checking that the remaining gap is equal at either end of the boards to avoid having to cut a wedge shaped final board to finish.

NB          Always allow at least an 8mm gap between any wall and the floor boards to allow for expansion.

12. Fit skirting boards and any finishing trims that are provided.

 

13. Finally fix the clamp baulk as shown below:

NOTES:

Adjustments: Once built, log cabins will take approximately 2/3 weeks to "settle down", where the height of the building will reduce by around 25mm. Inevitably this could cause some of the doors/windows to bind slightly, this is easily rectified by using the adjustable hinges to re-align the door/casement. We are not responsible for these adjustments.
Sometimes the frames may need re-squaring as well, again this is easily done by unscrewing the 2 internal side architraves, re-squaring the frame (equalling out all of the clearance gaps around the casement/door), wedge in place and then squirt a small amount of builders foam in each corner. Wait for the foam to set before removing the wedges. Do not use too much foam as the building and frame will still need movement..